Posted by AI on 2025-06-27 16:53:32 | Last Updated by AI on 2025-06-27 14:38:15
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Hundreds of craftspeople in Maharashtra are up in arms over Italian luxury brand Prada's latest spring/summer collection, which they say unfairly appropriates and commoditizes their traditional artisanal footwear, violating their hard-earned geographical indication (GI) protections.
The Kolhapuri chappal is a handmade leather sandal originating from the Indian state of Maharashtra. It is known for its distinctive crisscrossing leather straps and sturdy yet lightweight construction, traditionally crafted using locally sourced materials. Over the years, this humble footwear has gained popularity as a comfortable and durable accessory. Now, it is feared that Prada's take on the design may undermine the cultural heritage and economic livelihoods of these artisans.
Prada's version, showcased in its spring/summer 2023 men's collection, features a strikingly similar design to the Kolhapuri chappal but with some Italian luxury embellishments. The footwear is promoted as a hybrid design, combining "Indian Kolhapuri sandals and Prada's iconic slipper design."
Deeply troubled by the alleged appropriation, craftspeople and activists have sought government intervention, accusing the fashion house of profiting off another culture's heritage and claiming that the Italian designers behind the label "have not understood the essence of our culture." They argue that the luxury spin on their traditional design could lead to consumers perceiving the authentic Kolhapuri chappal as less appealing, ultimately harming their livelihood.
In a statement, a Prada spokesperson acknowledged that the design of the footwear is "inspired by a product made in India," but clarified that it is part of their "continuous research and creative process," adding that the final product is "completely different" and embodies "the quality and craftsmanship typical of Prada."
As this controversy unfolds, it brings to light ongoing global debates surrounding cultural appropriation, artistic inspiration, and the ethical boundaries of leveraging traditional designs in the fashion industry. With GI protections in place, the craftspeople of Maharashtra hope to safeguard the integrity of their cultural heritage and ensure equitable benefits for those who have dedicated their lives to keeping this traditional craft alive.